Dolly Ahluwalia is not just a name; she’s a legacy in the Indian film industry. Known for her exceptional skills in costume designing, Dolly has won numerous accolades, including the National Award for Best Supporting Actress in Vicky Donor and three Filmfare Awards for her work in Bandit Queen and Haider. Beyond her awards, Dolly Ahluwalia’s journey is one of passion, creativity, and an undying commitment to her craft.
Early Inspirations: A Family Tradition
Dolly’s journey into costume design didn’t start in the glamorous corridors of Bollywood but in her own home. Her aunt was her first teacher, instilling in her the fundamentals of color combinations and understanding what looks good on the human body. This early exposure to tailoring and design laid a strong foundation for her future career. Her father, who used to stitch frocks and even make shoes for Dolly and her sisters, also played a crucial role in nurturing her interest in clothing and design.
As she grew older, Dolly’s participation in cultural activities during her college days further fueled her passion. However, it was her time at the National School of Drama (NSD) that truly shaped her career. Under the guidance of her guru Ibrahim Alkhaji, Dolly discovered that costume design was not just a skill but an art form. She learned from the best, including Roshan Alkhaji and his daughter, who were experts in costume designing.
The NSD Experience: Learning the Craft
Dolly’s years at NSD were transformative. In 1976, during her first year, she had the opportunity to work with Roshan Alkhaji. Back then, students were given just 50 paise to travel to Old Delhi, jostling in crowded DTC buses, to buy plain and printed fabrics. These were not just shopping trips; they were lessons in the art of costume design. Dolly learned to identify the right threads, fabrics, and how to put them together to create something extraordinary.
But her education didn’t stop at fabrics. Dolly and her peers delved into history books, studied old paintings, sculptures, and manuscripts to understand how costumes were designed for characters in ancient plays. This deep research allowed her to translate historical designs into modern-day costumes, a skill that would later define her work in the film industry.
The Language of Costumes: More Than Just Fashion
For Dolly, costume designing is not just about fashion; it’s a language in itself. She believes that costumes can communicate as much as dialogues in a play or a film. Take Charlie Chaplin, for instance; his iconic outfit was as much a part of his character as his acting. According to Dolly, a well-designed costume can tell a story, reveal a character’s personality, and set the tone for the entire narrative.
In today’s world, where fashion is often seen as a status symbol, Dolly’s approach is different. She believes that if fashion is to be meaningful, it must have depth and understanding. For her, creating a dress with safety pins might be a challenge, but it’s important to ask whether it’s necessary. Fashion, in Dolly’s view, should have a purpose, much like our ambitions to explore the moon and Mars.
Staying True to Her Craft: On-Screen and Off-Screen
Dolly Ahluwalia is known for her authenticity, both on-screen and off-screen. In films like Love Shav Te Chicken Khurana and Vicky Donor, her characters were seen consuming cigarettes and alcohol, but Dolly herself never indulges in these habits. In Love Shav…, when the director Sameer Sharma cast her, he was initially concerned upon learning that she didn’t smoke. However, Dolly’s passion for acting led her to find a creative solution. She filled a cigarette with incense stick and cleverly executed the scenes, ensuring authenticity without compromising her principles.
Similarly, in Vicky Donor, when her character was required to drink rum, the team used tea to mimic the appearance of rum. The art director was so meticulous that he matched the color of the tea to that of rum, ensuring that the scenes looked as realistic as possible. This attention to detail is what sets Dolly apart as an artist who deeply cares about her craft.
Designing for Herself and Others
One of the unique aspects of Dolly’s career is her approach to costume design. She doesn’t just design costumes for others; she often wears her own creations. Whether it’s designing for stars like Saif Ali Khan or Kangana Ranaut, Dolly immerses herself in the process because she is an actor herself. This dual role allows her to understand the needs of actors and ensure that the costumes enhance their performances.
Dolly’s method involves more than just sketching and stitching. She makes her assistants model the costumes, allowing them to act out the scenes to see how the costumes move and feel. This hands-on approach not only helps her fine-tune the designs but also fosters creativity among her team. For Dolly, costume designing is not just about clothing; it’s about bringing a character to life.
The Changing Times: From Hard Work to Fast Food Culture
Dolly Ahluwalia’s journey has spanned decades, and she has witnessed the evolution of the industry. She fondly remembers her guru Ibrahim Alkhaji’s advice to focus on costume designing because of her keen eye for detail. For Dolly, costume designing is not just a job; it’s a form of worship. She is passionate about her work and believes that today’s generation should approach their craft with the same dedication.
However, Dolly also recognizes that times have changed. Today’s generation is often in a hurry, driven by the fast-food culture where everything is needed quickly. While she doesn’t blame them, she hopes that the essence of hard work and patience will be understood in the future. According to Dolly, achieving something in life takes time, and the journey is as important as the destination. The more one climbs step by step, the more fulfilling the experience becomes.
A Team Effort: The Power of Collaboration
Dolly Ahluwalia’s success is not just her own; it’s the result of collaboration with a dedicated team. She acknowledges the contributions of her tailors, assistants, dress dadas, ironers, and cobblers, who are like family to her. When Dolly designs a costume, her tailor understands her vision and provides valuable feedback, ensuring that the final product is not only beautiful but also practical.
Dolly is also inspired by the ideas of today’s students. Their energy and creativity attract her, and she often finds herself learning from them. She believes that costume designing is the skin of every character, and it’s this collaborative spirit that has helped her achieve so much in her career.
The Joy of Hard Work: A Life Lesson
For Dolly Ahluwalia, hard work is the foundation of everything she has achieved. She has worked tirelessly, putting in the effort to master her craft. This dedication has taught her the importance of honesty and perseverance. Whenever she embarks on a new project, she remembers the lessons she has learned and imparts the same wisdom to her children.
Dolly believes that while it may take time to achieve something in life, true success comes from hard work and honesty. The journey may be long, but it’s the climb that makes it worthwhile. It’s about staying awake, loving yourself, and understanding that the hurry to reach the top can sometimes make you miss the beauty of the journey.
Dolly Ahluwalia’s story is one of passion, dedication, and an unwavering commitment to her craft. Whether designing costumes for a film or performing on screen, she brings her unique touch to everything she does. In an industry that is constantly evolving, Dolly remains a beacon of creativity and hard work, inspiring future generations to follow in her footsteps.
